Geothermal Air Conditioning

How is a geothermal heat pump like a refrigerator?

Like a refrigerator, a geothermal heat pump simply transfers heat from one place to another. When a refrigerator is operating, heat is being carried away from the inside food storage area to the outside, your kitchen. Therefore, cooling is not being added to the inside; heat is being taken out.

To understand the operation of a geothermal heat pump, it helps to understand how a refrigerator works. A refrigerator uses a refrigeration circuit with four main components, a compressor (1), a condenser (2), an expansion device (3), and an evaporator (4). Refrigerant (sometimes referred to by the brand name Freon) is pumped through the circuit to transfer heat from the inside of the refrigerator to the outside.

The compressor (1) is the pump. It also pressurizes the refrigerant gas. Since temperature and pressure are directly related, as the pressure increases, the temperature increases. The high temperature/high pressure gas flows from the compressor to the condenser (2).The cooler air in the kitchen (relative to the temperature of the refrigerant, 150 to 180°F [65 to 85°C]) causes the refrigerant to condense into a liquid. When two surfaces at different temperatures touch (or are very near – separated only by tubing), the hotter surface cools and the cooler surface warms. This is a law of physics called the second law of thermodynamics. The condenser therefore releases heat to the kitchen.

The next step in the process involves the expansion device (3).The expansion device is a small orifice that the refrigerant is forced through. The small hole creates a pressure differential between the two sides of the device. Think of an expansion device like a dam on a river with a hole in the dam. The water leaking through the hole is at a low pressure on the downstream side; the water on the other side (being held back by the dam) is at a high pressure. Once again, the pressure/temperature relationship (lower pressure/ lower temperature) creates a cold, low pressure liquid refrigerant that gets fed to the evaporator (4).

As warm air inside the refrigerator (relative to the very cold temperature of the refrigerant) passes through the evaporator coil (4), the hotter surface (air inside the refrigerator) gets cooler and the cooler surface (refrigerant in the evaporator (4) tubing) gets warmer. The liquid refrigerant evaporates back into gas form, and the cycle starts over again as the refrigerant enters the compressor (1). The evaporator therefore absorbs heat from the inside of the refrigerator, which keeps the food cold.

An air conditioner or refrigerator transfers heat in only one direction. A heat pump can transfer heat in two directions, thereby heating or cooling the space. Most heat pumps heat or cool the air. Some heat pumps heat or chill water. An additional component, a reversing valve, is added to a heat pump, which allows the refrigerant to change direction, allowing the space that was being cooled to be heated.
A geothermal heat pump has a compressor, a condenser, an expansion device, and an evaporator like a refrigerator, but also includes a reversing valve to allow both heating and cooling. The big difference between a refrigerator or traditional air conditioner and a geothermal heat pump is the way heat is transferred. A geothermal heat pump transfers heat between the refrigerant circuit and the ground instead of between the refrigerant circuit and the air. The ground is a much milder heat source, since the temperature changes very little over the course of the year. The outside air temperature, however, varies significantly over the year, making a geothermal heat pump much more energy efficient than a traditional air conditioner or heat pump. A geothermal heat pump compressor also operates at lower pressures because of the milder heat source/heat sink (the ground), helping provide longer life expectancies.

A geothermal heat pump is a like a refrigerator in many ways. Simple refrigerator technology coupled with the stable temperature of the Earth provides quiet, reliable, and energy efficient heating and cooling systems for today’s discerning homeowners.

What to do when the Room Air Conditioner Doesn't Turn On ?

On a sunny hot day you are back from home and you switch ON your room air conditioner to get cooled and you find either the air conditioner doesn’t turn on or it doesn’t cool. I am not sure about you but I will certainly get mad in this situation.

Let us now discuss troubleshooting some of these most common room air conditioner problems and solution:


Room air conditioners consume a lot of electrical power. This can lead to less than optimum performance or even complete failure of the system. If your room air conditioner doesn’t turn on:

1.) Be sure the unit is plugged in and turned on properly.
2.) Check if the outlet of the AC is working by unplugging the air conditioner and plugging in a light that works (NOTE: do not plug a light into a 220/240-volt receptacle).

3.) If the light doesn’t go on, the circuit has probably overloaded. You need to check the electric panel or fuse box and reset the breaker or replace the fuse if required.

4.) If the light works, it’s likely that the air conditioner’s switch is faulty or the thermostat needs some adjustment or needs some repairing.

5.) Be sure the thermostat is set to “cool” and is below room temperature.

6.) Always refer to the manufacturer’s instructions (repair and care manual) for thermostat repair. If adjusting or repairing the thermostat doesn’t solve the problem then unplug the unit and call an air conditioner technician. If your air conditioner is under warranty, call the customer care of the company.

What to do when Room Air Conditioner Doesn't Cool

If your room air conditioner that doesn’t cool then you may need to clean it or recharge it with refrigerant. You can clean an air conditioner yourself by disassembling the unit yourself or you can call a professional. But before doing the job yourself you need to read the system manual and make sure you have the right
skills and tools to do the job. Here is what you may need to do:

1.) Unplug the unit and remove it very carefully from the window or the wall and place it somewhere outdoors where you can work on it.

2.) Remove the grille and filter and unscrew the metal case while making sure that you do not damage the coil’s fins.

3.) Wash out the filter or replace it with a new filter.

4.) Clean the inside coil’s fins by using a vacuum with a soft brush attachment.

5.) From the fan side, spray water back through the fins. You will have to protect the wiring and motor with plastic.

6.) Clean the unit up with a rag and allow the system to dry completely.

7.) You can also lubricate the motor as per the “Repair and Care” manual’s instructions.

8.) Then reassemble and reinstall the unit.
If that does not do the work then clean the evaporator and condenser coils. If it still doesn’t works then you may have to call some professional or call the company’s customer care.

5 tips to help maintain your AC

Replacing your air conditioning filter regularly will not only improve the efficiency of your air conditioner but may even prolong its life. When you do not replace your air conditioning filter, dirt, dust and grime block the flow of air, forcing it to bypass the filter and carry dirt directly into the evaporator coil.

Because the coil is the part of your air conditioner that absorbs heat, you want to keep the coil clean to keep it functioning smoothly and to prevent your compressor and fans from failing. Fortunately, replacing your air conditioning filter is not as
intimidating as it sounds if you follow these tips below:

1. Location. Your air conditioning filter will be located somewhere along the duct that returns air from the house and to the air conditioner. Filters are often located in the air conditioner itself or in ceilings, walls or furnaces.

2. System. Different air conditioning filters use different filtration methods to clean the air. Two of the less expensive types of filters use either a fine coating around strands of fiberglass or numerous folded paper pleats to filter the air. There are also reusable filters that use an electrostatic charge to filter the air (these filters need to be cleaned rather than replaced). Although filters that use an electrostatic charge are more costly to start with, over the long term they may end up saving you money, and of course, they are more environmentally friendly as well. To determine which system you have, remove the filter and look at it (it's usually pretty easy to distinguish the differences). If you cannot identify the filter by sight, you can always bring it with you to the store.

3. Frequency. If you do have a disposable rather than a reusable air conditioning filter, check your air conditioning filter every month. Chances are that you will end up replacing it every month to two months during the summer season. You may need to replace your filter more frequently if you have pets or a smoker in the house, if your house is particularly dusty (say if you live next to a dirt road or are in the midst of a remodeling project) or if your air conditioner receives frequent use.

4. Size. When purchasing the replacement filter, be sure to measure the existing filter first. My favorite trick is to keep the box so that I can be sure I am buying the correct filter, but in lieu of the actual box, use a tape measure instead and measure the filter to the closest eighth of an inch so that you can be sure you are buying the correct filter for your air conditioning system. There is nothing more frustrating than coming home with a new filter that is an eighth of an inch too big or too small.

5. Efficiency. Don't be fooled into thinking that replacing your filters less frequently can save you money. Though air conditioning filters are not inexpensive, the efficiency of your air conditioner is greatly increased when the filters are clean. No matter what type of filter you use, make a note to yourself to check it often and to replace it when it starts looking fuzzy.

5 easy green tips for kids

1. Turn off the lights when leaving a room, or better yet-reduce the need for electricity by opening those curtains and letting the light come in!. Light bulbs require electricity, and often electricity is produced from power plants that use fossil fuels. This is an easy way to save energy, and everyone can help.

2. Recycle. It is easier now more than ever to recycle, and nearly everything can be reused paper to glass. Utilize existing bins, or create your own and have a little fun learning to sort through the different types of products we use on a daily basis.

3. Only use as much water as you need. Turn off faucets when not directly in use, and keep an eye (or ear!) out for dripping or leaky fixtures. Water is another resource, and conserving it is another way to "go green!"

4. Use shopping bags when going to the grocery store. Have fun decorating cloth bags, and then remember to take them with you on your next outing. Reducing the need for plastic bags is a great way to conserve.

5. Make a compost. Composting is a great way to reduce waste in landfills and a wonderful way to naturally fertilize your garden!

Nature's very own pest control - bats!

An easy, low-cost project that you can do to help control the mosquito and beetle population in your neighborhood is to build a bat box!

Bats have dwelled in the mists of legend and folklore for generations, and is it only recently that the myths surrounding these misunderstood little mammals have been refuted.

There are over 1000 species of bats worldwide, and they make up nearly one quarter of all living mammals on the planet!

Every state with the exception of Hawaii has bats, and the majority of bats in the United States are insect eaters-which is where the bat box comes into play. Bats eat several times their own weight in insects every single night, and they are increasingly being encouraged to "move in" by communities and industries as a natural form of pest control.

Depending upon how large your bat box is, it may be able to hold up to 200 of these beneficial little mammals-with each bat eating hundreds of insects each and every night.

Bat boxes are slim, wooden structures with an opening at the bottom for the bats to enter and leave through. Also, a good bat box contains several roosting chambers (the best designs include three or more chambers), and each chamber is at least 20" tall, 14" wide and 3/4" deep.

Placement of the bat box is imperative to ensure that not only will the box attract bats, but that it will maintain whatever size colony that decides to occupy your artificial habitat. In general, most bats prefer very warm temperatures during the day, and the box should be placed in an area where it can receive the most sunlight. Also, the box should be placed high enough that predators will be unable to access the colony.

There are numerous examples and templates for bat boxes online, and it is a fairly simple matter to do a little research and even determine what species of bat(s!) that might be inhabiting your box.

Building a bat box can be a rewarding experience, both as a learning tool and as a contribution to the environment.

Help control the insect population and provide suitable habitat for one of the planet's most misunderstood animals!

Earth loops can cut your utility bills by Michael Dunn

The first time I heard the term “earth loops,” I figured it was some nutty new breakfast cereal for the granola crowd. ”How about a hearty bowl of Earth Loops? Oh, sure they taste like truck tires, but they’re crunchy and nutritious, and they won’t hurt the ozone layer!” Well, it turns out I was wrong. (Although I still think they’d be good with milk.)

Actually, earth loops are components of geothermal technology, which uses the ground as a heat-exchange medium. Because the ground absorbs energy from the sun and stores it deep beneath the surface, people can tap into that stored energy and use it to heat and cool homes. Here’s how it works: A series of polyethylene pipes filled with ordinary tap water is buried deep underground. (In cold climates, antifreeze may be added to the water.) Using a specially designed heat pump, the water is circulated through the pipes, which form one long, continuous “earth loop.” In the heating mode, the liquid in the pipes is cooler than the ground. In the cooling mode, the soil is cooler than the liquid. Because heat always moves from a warm area to a cooler one, heat is exchanged between them, said Paul Fink, territory manager for WaterFurnace Southeast.

WaterFurnace introduced the first closed-loop system to South Florida in 1990, and since then the company has installed about 400 residential units, Fink said. Last month, for example, the company installed a geothermal system at baseball star Dwight Gooden’s St. Petersburg home. The system works – and is energy efficient – because underground temperatures remain constant within geographical locations, he said. In the Tampa Bay area, for instance, the underground temperature is roughly 74 degrees year-round, compared with 70 degrees in the Panhandle and colder as you go north.

Unfortunately, the up-front costs are expensive – roughly $8,700 for a 3-ton vertical heat-pump system – and that’s one of the reasons builders have shied away from it. “Builders are a little bit scared of it,” said Jay Egg, president of Egg Systems Inc., and Oldsmar company that installs the systems. “But people love it.” Fink put it more bluntly: “If a builder is progressive and concerned about energy and the environment,” he’ll try it. “Unfortunately, most builders don’t fall into that category. How can I put this subtly – they’re cheap as hell.” Palm Harbor builder Mike Connor of Schickedanz Bros. has installed two geothermal systems and said they “seem to work real well. From what we’ve seen, it looks like it offers pretty substantial savings.”

Geothermal systems work best for heating, so they’re more popular in Northern climates, Egg said. But the system can save Floridians $40 a month on air-conditioning bills, and because it recycles warm water, a household’s water-heating costs are virtually eliminated, he said. Geothermal systems recoup their costs in five to seven years, and the specially designed heat pump lasts four to five times longer than traditional heat pumps because it is housed indoors, he said. Egg, incidentally, has introduced a new kind of geothermal system to the Bay area in which the earth loops are shaped like a Slinky. They take up less space than traditional straight-pipe geothermal systems, so they can be installed in just about any yard, he said. Those interested in learning more about earth loops can contact WaterFurnace Southeast at (800) 231-5667 or Egg Systems Inc., at (813) 855-7545.